San Miguel de Allende
By Dave Krieg & Anne Kiehl
San Miguel is a very special small town. Located in the central highlands, 650 miles from Texas and less than a day's drive from Mexico City, it has a climate that is comfortable year-round. It and its smaller neighbor, Dolores Hidalgo, are important historically as the birthplace of the war of independence from Spain. For generations, its Instituto Allende has attracted and educated artists both from Mexico and other countries. Allende is the name of a local leader of that rebellion.
Visitors becomes lost in its charm as they stroll its cobblestone streets, past buildings abutting on the sidewalks, built in the Spanish style, but with glimpses into shady courtyards. You may rest on a wrought-iron bench in the "Jardin," the central plaza, or in one of the several other block-size parks. Families stroll by, with shy youngsters stealing glances at you, or somewhat older children absorbed at boisterous play in street games. Street merchants sell the locals ears of steamed corn a Mexican favorite. We felt quite safe walking home after dark, but inexpensive taxis are available if one wishes.
Its area and architecture is what is called "Colonial Style" and it is one of several Mexican cities designated a National Monument with regulations designed to preserve its traditional appearance.
Despite (or perhaps because of) its fitting an outsider's image of traditional Mexico, it has a rather large number of tourists. There are abundant good restaurants, boutiques and galleries catering to tastes of various levels of sophistication. Shops offer handcrafts made locally or from all over Mexico. But one does not experience an overwhelming "Americanization" as one does in places like Cancun or Cabo San Lucas.
Many "Norteamericanos" (a term that encompasses Canadians as well as Americans) have succumbed to its charm and established homes there. They constitute about three thousand of its perhaps 60,000 residents. They refurbish traditional old buildings; one does not find tracts of modern houses with transplanted styles. The interested person gets a chance for a good look at some of these homes in a regular Sunday open-house offering a different three each time, with the fee going to a worthy local cause.
There is a bilingual newspaper and an excellent library with both English and Spanish-language books and periodicals. Local children and Norteamericano retirees share tables in the patio and help each other in their respective language studies. Lectures, plays and various exhibits are offered every week. "Internet cafes" are numerous.
We chose to start our five months in Mexico by spending a month in San Miguel, brushing up on our Spanish at one of perhaps a half-dozen Spanish Language Institutes. Instruction ranges from small classes to individual tutoring; we chose the latter Anne at a more advanced level than Dave's. After a few weeks in the Instituto Anne's instructor offered us tutoring right in our campground. (Our expense was lower and his earnings were higher.) He was a good teacher, clear and patient and accommodating to our interests. At the end of our stay, he invited us to dinner with his wife and child in their home (an unusual honor since normally in that culture only old friends are invited into the home). He asked us in advance what our favorite dish was, and we were served generous portions of it -- tasty Chili Rellenos. Our hostess did not speak English but Anne did a fine job of conversing in Spanish with her, with only occasional translating help from our host.
The campground where we stayed was quite satisfactory, with pleasant grounds, full-hookups to utilities and most important just a pleasant 30-minute walk to the center of town.
We enjoyed our stay there very much. We had previously been there for several visits of a day or two each, and we are quite likely to go there again. We are far from ready to settle down anywhere, but if we were, San Miguel would be with the top ten candidates of American places to consider for a permanent home.
